Expedition Overview

Short Description about Amadablam Expedition

The  route of Amadablam expedition  requires knowledge of rope work and technical climbing techniques. It is suitable for climbers with previous technical ice and snow experience on much smaller objectives. Exposure to heights above 6,000m would be ideal, but not mandatory for members who can display previous solid technical ability on mixed ground. The style of our expedition will provide for our lead guides to fix and maintain the route for the climbing party, with opportunities available for members to assist in the route fixing. Amadablam expedition starts with an extraordinary trek from Lukla after flying from kathmandu and trek continues to Ama Dablam Base Camp  with three nights in Namche along the way to ensure and excellent acclimatization. We also are including in our trip a warm-up climb on Island Peak which will give everyone a chance to get their skills in order on a much less technical peak. Additionally, this will enable us to move efficiently from Ama Dablam BC to the high camps utilizing the climbing and hanging techniques and it helps to make a summit attempt without unnecessary repetition of carries on the lower slopes of the mountain.With a world class trek, comfortable base camp arrangement by a clear stream and on a grassy meadow, a great warm-up peak, experienced guides and like-minded teammates this will be a great trip from start to finish!

Ama Dablam 6856M: The South West Ridge Route
The route weaves its way up through an ever changing environment of rock towers, ice humps, snow and ice platforms, and terminates upon a ramp of steepish ice and snow before rounding off to a spectacular summit mound where the views of Everest and a multitude of other peaks abound. It is the outlandish exposure, a mind boggling variation of scenery and topography, and the little hidden discoveries along the way up and across the ridge, that make climbing this route such a tantalizing experience.
 
 
Base Camp to Camp 1
The only non-technical portion of the climb. Leave base camp 4600M and head towards the SW ridge via a will worn trail. Climb up scree & possible snow slopes to the large talus field. Do your best to follow the rock cairns through the talus where you will eventually see the site of camp 1 and the start of the fixed lines, the slabs. Helmets on, either climb the low 5th class slabs or jumar up fixed lines to camp 1 5650M. (4-6 hours from base camp)
 
 
Camp 1 to Camp 2
Follow the ridge, and likely the fixed lines, for an amazing day in the hills. Classic slabby climbing with a few short steep pitches that can easily be free climbed at about 5.6. Be prepared for insane exposure on both sides of the ridge. The crux of the route is the Yellow Tower located right before camp 2 at about 5965M. Jumar or climb the 5.9 35M near vertical rock pitch, don't look down! Camp 2 is situated about 100 horizontal meters from camp 2 6000M (3-5 hours from camp 1)
 
 
 
Camp 2 to Camp 3
Be well prepared for this day, both physically and mentally. The exposure is out of this world and the climbing is non stop, in your face from right out of camp 2. Ascent the Grey Tower, usually a moderate mixed climb of M4 or lower. Watch out for climbers above as the rock is very loose. Traverse onto the ice and gain the Mushroom Ridge right before the new site of Camp 3 6350M.
We no longer use the old site of camp 3 and have opted to dig into the ridge for a safe, secure camp. It is also possible to summit from camp 2 for stronger parties. (Highly recommended!) (6-10 hours from C2 to the summit)

Camp 3 to Summit
Climb the final sections of the Mushroom Ridge to the site of the old camp 3. Ascend the 50 degree hard ice and snow slopes around the right side of the Dablam. Take a breather, cross the bergschrund, and follow the left trending ridge 45 degrees line directly to the summit. (3-5 hours from camp 3). It is advisable to get off of the mountain as quickly as possible. It is common practice to descend from the summit to C3 or C2 and down to base camp the next day. A true classic.

Fixed Departure

First Group Departure from Kathmandu to Lukla : 15 Oct 2012 - E-mail Us for this date

Second Group Departure from Kathmandu to Lukla : 25 Oct 2012 - E-mail Us for this date

Option One for Longer Amadablam Expedition: 26 Days

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu Airport, and transfer to hotel. O/N at hotel.

Day 02: Briefing at Tourism Board.

Day 03: Flight Kathmandu – Lukla trek to Phakding

Day 04: Phakding – Namche

Day 05: Rest day in Namche

Day 06: Namche – Thame

Day 07: Thame – Lungden

Day 08: Lungden – Gokyo via Renjo Pass 5300m

Day 09: Gokyo Hiking Fith Lake

Day 10: Gokyo Ri – Tagrak

Day 11: Tagrak – lobuche via Chola pass 5350m

Day 12: Kalapathar via Gorakshep – Lobuche

Day 13: Lobuche – Ama Dablam Bass Camp

Day 14: Base Camp Preparation

Day 15 -21: Expedition  Period of Ama Dablam,

Day 22: Namche,

Day 23: Namche – Lukla,

Day 24: Flight Lukla – Kathmandu. O/N at hotel.,

Day 25: Free Day in Kathmandu,

Day 26: Final Departure transfer to intrenational airport.

Option Two for Short Amadablam Expedition: 23 Days

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu Airport, and transfer to hotel. O/N at hotel.
Day 02: Briefing at Tourism Board.
Day 03: Flight Kathmandu – Lukla trek to Phakding
Day 04: Phakding – Namche
Day 05: Rest day in Namche
Day 06: Namche – Thame
Day 07: Thame – Lungden
Day 08: Lungden – Gokyo via Renjo Pass 5300m
Day 09: Gokyo Ri – Tagnak
Day 10: Tagnak to periche via chola pass
Day 11: Periche to Amadablam Base Camp
Day 12: Rest day in Amadablam Base Camp for puja and climbing preparation
Day 13 - 17: Amadablam Climbing Period
Day 18: Base Camp Clean Up
Day 19: Amadablam Base Camp to Namche
Day 20: Namche – Lukla
Day 21: Flight Lukla – Kathmandu.
Day 22: Free Day in Kathmandu,
Day 23: Final Departure transfer to intrenational airport.