 Pasang Lhamu Chuli is one of the recently opened new peaks for foreign expedition. The peak is about 5 km west – south of Cho Oyu and raises to the height of 7,350m. The peak was first climbed by an expedition team from West Ridge in 1996. The route of south or east ridge is more difficult and has remained still unclimbed.We will set up the Base Camp at 5,400m on the central moraine of Nampa La Glacier and the Advance Base Camp at 5,600m near the foot of West Ridge Nampa La. Camp I will be set up at 6,250m just below the second Col. The climbing from Camp I will require difficult work of pitching of fixed ropes on knife-edged ridge which will be the most difficult part of the expedition. Camp II will be set up at 7,100m on the snow hump just behind Triangular Rock Peak. Then we will traverse to right side to avoid rock obstacles. After a few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge we will traverse about 300m to the right and get to the last summit ridge. From here, we will climb up 3 more pitches to reach the real summit which is in fact, an ice pyramid not having enough space to stand on it. The summit provides unexpected close view of Everest and other high peaks.
Itinerary |
