 Island peak is most popular trekking peak in Nepal lies on Khumbu. Perhaps the name of peak is so because from Dingboche the peak is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak . The extension of this ridge descending southwest is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the south Summit .Imja Tse, another name of the same Island Peak does not only provide an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. View from the summit are Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add much more charming bonus in climbing Island Peak (Imjatse).
The normal route:
The base camp of Island Peak lies in Chukung Valley , between Island Peak and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall. From the base camp, a well-acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp, which adds the joy of climbing and helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts southeast around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on at 5, 280m. From the high camp, the lefts hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. We can make the itinerary as you interest and time.
Food and Accommodation: This climbing trip could be made shorter escaping acclimatization trip to Everest Base Camp and Kalapattar. But this detour is highly recommended to overcome hazardous mountain sickness. As we follow classic Everest trail, there are plenty of local sherpa lodges. The lodges are cozy and cater hygienic food of basic international standard. Using these lodges aids to local economy. Once we leave the last village of Chukung , we will be camping and food will be served by our cook. The base camp is well recognized place of Pareshaya Gyab (4,970m). The high camp is at an altitude of 5,550m.
Itinerary |
